What the heck is PDRN?
Pro tip: Put a mask and patches on, and read below!
Dear Mask Lovers,
Last month I mentioned PDRN was part of my own trial-and-error skincare journey. Given how this ingredient is gaining popularity, many of you asked the same question “What is it really?”
1. Where it came from
PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) got its start in Italy, where researchers in the 1950s discovered that certain nucleic acid extracts could dramatically speed up how skin and tissue repaired themselves. For example, in a randomized trial on chronic diabetic foot ulcers, PDRN roughly doubled the rate of complete wound closure compared to placebo. This got PDRN taken seriously as a regenerative drug long before it ever touched a sheet mask.
2. Injection vs. topical
The term "PDRN" itself wasn’t coined until 1996.
Application started to accelerate by the early 2000s, with Korean pharmaceutical companies refining PDRN for beauty and wellness, and launching the injectable version in 2014. Injectable PDRN goes straight into the dermis (the middle section of skin layer), bypassing the skin barrier for a stronger regenerative effect to improve skin healing, thickness and elasticity. So of course I tried it, twice!
Like most reviews say, it was extremely painful. (You’ll have to keep in mind my pain tolerance is -1 out of 10, so I am biased.) However, at the time, an extremity would be comparing it to childbirth pain! The injectable version had about 50 needle jabs in ALL parts of my face - I needed to pause throughout the treatment. To be sure that it wasn’t a fluke, I did try it again a year later…
It was the same, even more painful, second time around! While I did see some hydrating and rejuvenation results for the next 3 months after injection - for me it was too short lived to be worth the hassle and pain. So now on to a more practical version of PDRN: Topical PDRN in sheet masks which smaller fragments that works with the skin barrier instead. It acts as a gentler, daily maintenance tool for hydration, glow, and upkeep between clinic visits.
3. Salmon vs. Vegan
Most PDRN on the market today is still animal-derived, mainly fish. It is extracted from salmon or trout milt via cell lysis, DNA isolation, and enzymatic hydrolysis, then purified. Salmon or Trout have been chosen because its structure closely resembles our own, which is likely why clinical results have been stronger than Vegan options.
A newer "phyto-PDRN" alternative comes from plants like ginseng or rice, or fermentation with lactic acid bacteria which is promising for our vegan subscribers, though it still lacks head-to-head evidence against salmon PDRN.
4. So what does the future hold for PDRN?
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You will see a lot more mentions of this ingredient in media, it hasn’t reached its viral peak yet (already with a 609.8% up year-over-year on Google Search!)
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Legal regulations are starting to open up with only topical PDRN (masks, serums) legal in the US, but injectable PDRN/PN is not FDA-approved for aesthetic yet.
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The next-gen molecule called PN (polynucleotide) is emerging, using longer DNA chains that act as a structural, hydrating filler rather than PDRN's shorter, repair-signaling fragments, so expect the industry to start distinguishing the two for more targeted treatments.
Bottom line: PDRN earned its buzz with decades of real research behind it. Not every trending ingredient can say that.
We hope you had a lovely summer, and here we go September!
Best regards,
Michelle
Teaser for your September box: We're trying a lineup of new ingredients this month: Peach, packed with antioxidants to help fight off the daily environmental stress that comes with settling back into school and work mode. Red ginseng, working to brighten dullness and de-puff tired skin. And more masks to seal all that moisture and nourishment in with the changing of the seasons.
